Guest Blogger Donna Morse – in Hawaiian Islands, South Pacific and beyond, November/December 2019
I am certain that most people, when they hear of travel to the Hawaiian Islands and the South Pacific, visions of beautiful sandy beaches, blue hued waters and coral reefs may be the first thing that comes to mind. But there is so much else to see and experience in the beautiful islands of the South Pacific waters.
Note: We travelled to these exotic ports of call on Norwegian Cruise Line ship “The Jewel”. NCL is our cruise line of choice and has taken us to many ports throughout the world. We enjoy NCL’s incredible itineraries, the amenities on board the ship and the wonderful caring staff members that we have met over the years. As my husband says, “cruising is like wine tasting – if you like the taste then you can go back for the full bottle”.
A day or two in each port of call will not give one a total feel of the area. Your travels are your own and your experience is what you make with the time you have. Enjoy and safe travels!
Donna Morse
The Hawaiian Islands
My husband and I started our adventure in Honolulu. Now I must be honest with you, I am not a huge fan of the Hawaiian Islands. Too expensive and commercialized in many places but I do have to admit the weather is wonderful, beaches are beautiful (albeit too many people) and the foliage is gorgeous. We spent a few days in Honolulu taking in the normal sites – Pearl Harbour, Waikiki Beach and visiting Diamond Head State Monument. Highly recommend doing the hike up Diamond Head Summit Trail with the beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean and being up close and personal with the military history of the region. Note there is an entrance fee to the State Monument – cash only – $1.00 per person or $5.00 per car. At the end of the hike, reward yourself and grab a pineapple smoothie served from a concession stand near the visitor centre. Delicious!!!!!
A very worthwhile (and free) place to visit while in Oahu, is the US Army Museum of Hawaii. For those of you who may be military history buffs, an afternoon spent at this museum would be for you.
Also, one last point to mention is if you are staying in Oahu at Halloween (October 31), do take in the festivities in and around Waikiki’s main shopping area. Grab a spot on the street and costume watch – it is quite the site from little ones all decked out in their favourite costumes to adults wearing the most outlandish to lavish costumes.
Our first stop after Honolulu was in Lahaina, which is a quaint laid-back town on the island of Maui. Lahaina is a lovely spot to spend the day and one can learn the history of the region at the Baldwin House, Wo Hing Museum and the colonial Court House Museum. There is a small fee which covers the entrance to both the Baldwin House and the Wo Hing Museum. For all you Forrest Gump fans, check out the “Forrest Bench” in front of Bubba Gump’s Shrimp Co. A must stop for picture taking!
From Maui, we sailed to Hilo, Hawaii, with our first stop at Rainbow Falls part of the Hawaii State Parks. Pending the location of the sun, beautiful distinctive rainbows can be seen emerging from the falls. A beautiful and tranquil place to visit.
From Hilo, we drove to the outlying suburbs which were affected during the May 17, 2018 Puna Volcanic eruption. Evidence of the eruption can still be seen in and around the area. Many roads are still blocked with hardened lava which flowed from the volcano providing a unique view of the impact of a flow through a populated area.
There were places outside of Hilo that we visited which had been impacted by lava flows throughout the years having changed much of the coastline in and around Hilo. Imagine walking on hardened lava, over homes buried during the 1992 eruption, to a black lava beach with forceful waves bounding the new coastline. The force of nature truly becomes evident. Something not to be missed. Other places of interest to visit would be the Kalapana Painted Church, and Liliuokalani Gardens were one can see mongooses running wild.
Our next stop was Kauai, which is the oldest and most northerly of the Hawaiian Islands. When visiting Kauai, one must take in the beautiful and rugged Nepali Coastline. There are many tours operating which would allow you to take in this magnificent scenery – via boat, land or air.
The Nepali Coast is said to be one of the most recognizable and beautiful coastlines in the world and I must say we were not disappointed. The Pali, or cliffs, are rugged with spectacular waterfalls and green lush deep valleys. Again, a must for any visitor to Kauai.
French Polynesia – Currency is CFP Franc but US dollars may be accepted.
Our first stop was Nuku Hiva, the second largest island in the French Polynesia archipelago. One has the feeling of stepping back in time with lush vegetation and ancient ruins scattered throughout. We travelled to ancient open-air gathering places (tohua) with timeworn statues rising from the grounds. Steep cliffs and cascading waterfalls were abundant. Nuku Hiva’s beautiful Taipivai Valley is a must see.
Not much in the form of public transportation on the island but people are very friendly and helpful.
Our next stop in French Polynesia was Moorea. Again, scenery was stunning with thick rain forests, colorful scented foliage and white sand beaches. There are many tour companies operating in Moorea and one must not miss the Belvedere Lookout with panoramic view of Cook and Opunohu Bays.
My husband and I hiked the 3 Coconuts Trail on a volcanic ridge with an elevation gain of 1171 feet. The reward at the end of the hike were the beautiful views over Valanae-Haapiti and Mt Routine. A guide from the island would be highly recommended for this hike and it is not for inexperienced hikers. There are many tour companies operating in Moorea which could assist one in experiencing all that Moorea has to offer.
We sailed onto Bora Bora, often called the island of mythical beauty. Bora Bora had always been on my bucket list after seeing pictures of the blue ocean hues, coral sea gardens and overwater bungalows. Well, the island did not disappoint but there is much more to the area than just the ocean, white sand beaches and bungalows.
Again, there are many tour companies operating in Bora Bora offering all the island has to give. We took a 4 x 4 driving through the small town of Vaitape to head up Pahonu Hill to view cannons left from WWII. Bora Bora has some interesting WWII history as after the 1941 attack at Pearl Harbour, the US chose the island as a military supply base. While ascending the Pahonu Hill, one had to imagine the difficulty it would have been for allied forces to haul and install the cannons in the strategic points offered on the island. As well as the cannons, there were a number of military bunkers seen throughout the area adding more thought to the strategic location.
A visit to Bora Bora must include a catamaran and snorkelling in the cobalt and sapphire hued waters. A beautiful place to be sure.
Tahiti was our next port of call and is the largest island in the French Polynesia archipelago. Papeetee is the capital of this gorgeous island and is a bustling metropolis serving many tourists.
As our trip was centred in the Papeetee region, we decided to take a drive around the island to take in as much scenery as we could. For those history buffs, a stop at Venus Point would certainly be a priority. Venus Point, on the north coast of Tahiti, was the historic landing point for Capt. James Cook in 1769. In 1788, it was also the landing point for the crew of the infamous Bounty who came ashore. As I am a bit of a “Mutiny on the Bounty” buff, I can imagine why the crew would not want to leave this beautiful place with the blue waters and black sand beach.
Also, in the park stands Tahiti’s only lighthouse which was built in 1867 to commemorate the arrival of Captain Samuel Wallis to its shores.
The Spring Garden of Vaipahi, which features a stunning waterfall, is also a beautiful place to relax and stroll through the gardens full of rare species of wood trees and tropical flowers.
For those of you who may be interested in purchasing Tahitian Pearls, I would highly recommend Tahiti Pearl Market, 25 Rue de Pere Collette, Papeete. The staff are extremely knowledgeable and were a pleasure to deal with.
On we went to the island of Raiatea known as the sacred island having been the centre of royalty, religion, culture and history to the ancient Polynesians. Again, only having one day to explore this gorgeous island, we took a 4×4 tour to view the lush forests and foliage along with the dormant volcanic craters that make up this island. We drove through forests of bamboo, chestnut, mango trees and guava.
One of the most interesting sites we visited was Marat Taputapuatea, a UNESO World Heritage Site, which served as a religious and ceremonial centre for ancient Polynesians. It is a sacred site where these sea faring people set off to discover other islands which now form the famous Polynesian Triangle – Hawaii, New Zealand and Easter Island. If visiting, take a few moments to look around at the archeological wonders that dot the landscape.
Raiatea was the end of our travels through the French Polynesian Islands. The islands were beautiful and the people very friendly.
American Samoa – Currency US Dollars
Our only stop in American Samoan Islands was the capital of Pago Pago. After touring the gorgeous islands of French Polynesian, I must say that Pago Pago was a bit of a disappointment. Again, though, remember our travels only permitted us a few hours to take in some sites and I would recommend travelling outside of the capital to get a better idea of the unique beauty of the island.
Surprisingly, we found Pago Pago very third world albeit being an unincorporated territory of the United States. The only tour buses available were small wooden open-air buses but the ride was somewhat comfortable and very refreshing having the wind off the water to cool one down.
We travelled from Pago Pago along the eastern coastline to Two Dollar Beach which was a nice place to relax and watch the waves come in. There is a small cost to access this beach. Many beautiful scenic spots throughout the island but many, many sites of garbage and trash lying around which puts a damper on the scenery.
Fiji – currency is FJD dollars and would highly recommend converting to FJD prior to visiting. Most credit cards would be accepted but not at local markets, shops etc.
Our next stop on this magnificent South Pacific excursion was the Fijian Island of Lautaka. We started our exploration of this beautiful island in the village of Viseisel where the first Fijian people landed. We were treated to an elaborate display of local song and dance taking part in a Vaqona (Kava) ceremony. While drinking kava from a community bowl may not be the best idea, one should really partake. Kava is a tranquillizing non-alcoholic drink which numbs the tongue and comes from the dried roots of a pepper plant. Looks like watery mud but the proverb “when in Rome do as the Romans do” comes to mind. You won’t be disappointed!
From Viseisel, we travelled through sugar cane fields and rolling pine forests to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant. This park was established by Canadian actor, Raymond Burr, and contains over 2000 different varietals of orchids. A beautiful and tranquil place to walk taking in the scenery of this beautiful place. The entry fee is $18.00 Fijian.
Our next stop was Suva, situated on the island of Viti Levu. Suva is the capital of Fiji and has all the amenities of a capital city. Government buildings, consulates and universities are throughout. It is a bustling metropolis with many markets. Just a drive through this South Pacific City would not disappoint.
Oceania
Our visit to Vanuatu, a country in Oceania, took us to the capital city of Port Vila. We were fortunate to be toured around Port Vila, and the outlying countryside, by my cousin and her husband who own a successful business on this beautiful island.
Our first stop was Mele Cascades waterfall which is one of Vanuatu’s most popular attractions. There is a small fee to enter the park and then a climb of about 25 minutes up to the falls set amongst stunning scenery and tranquil ponds. About halfway up there is a lookout over Port Vila that was breathtaking.
The Mele Cascades waterfall flows into many natural pools along the way so wear attire that can get wet. A great way to end the climb up this beautiful natural waterfall is to take a dip into the pool at the top. Also, wear shoes that can get wet for the climb up to the pools. Scenery and landscape are spectacular.
Our second stop for the day was hopping the free ferry for a trip to Hideaway Island for lunch and some snorkelling. Once on the island a short walk took us to Hideaway Island’s Beach bar and restaurant where we stopped for freshly caught fish and chips. Delicious! Quite the setting with a beautiful sand beach overlooking coral reefs with crystal clear tropical waters. An incredible place to snorkel as well with a huge coral reef and an abundance of tropical fish to be seen. A very memorable day, for sure!
Vanuatu’s currency is the Vatu (VT) but easy to use Australian dollars. French is spoken throughout the island, but locals are fluent in English, as well.
New Caledonia – currency is the CFP Franc
Noumea, New Caledonia was our next stop and is a thriving metropolis with a distinctive French feel. Noumea had a significant role during WW II serving as the US Military Headquarters from 1942 until the end of the war. We visited the WWII museum which is an easy walk from the Cruise Ship Terminal. While it is not a huge museum, it did give one insight into the role Noumea had in the region during the second world war.
From here, we travelled to Anse Du Fort to view two cannons that had served as part of Noumea’s French coastal defence system in the late 1800’s. The views of the area were magnificent.
We spent the afternoon walking throughout the central business/shopping district taking in local sites, Coconut Palm Square and partaking in French coffee and pastries. Good food, beautiful surroundings and friendly people. What more could a person want?
The main language in Noumea is French but, again, we found most of the locals were somewhat fluent in English.
On we travelled to Lifou, New Caledonia. Lifou Island, or Drehu in the local language, is the largest and most populated island of the Loyalty Islands in the archipelago of New Caledonia and is a territory of France. Turquoise hued waters, white sand beaches and a quaint church nestled overlooking the port greeted us. One look at this area of the island and you knew you were in a tropical paradise! Grass covered huts lined the little village which was a short walk from the dock area. A further walk outside of the village led to one to the most stunning coral reefed waters at Jinek Bay. There is a small fee to snorkel in Jinek Bay but just taking in the scenery would not disappoint.
From Jinek Bay we walked up to the Notre Dame de Lourdes Chapel which is perched on a cliff high above the bay. The chapel was built by Catholic missionaries who arrived on the island in 1858. It is a steep climb with a pathway made of large uneven rocks, some concrete steps but once at the top you will enjoy one of the best views of the South Pacific Ocean. You can also sit for a while not only taking in the views but spending a few minutes to reflect on the people who for over a century have called this chapel their own. An exquisite, charming place.
In New Caledonia, the local language is French. We found many locals were not very fluent in English. The currency is CFP Franc, but Australian currency may be accepted. It would be wise to ensure you had local or Australian currency when making a visit to these islands.
NOTE: Internet services throughout the South Pacific Islands was either nonexistent or very slow.
Australia – a Visa is required when visiting Australia and can be obtained online.
Sydney never disappoints and if you are arriving by cruise ship ensure you wake early to be out on deck to enjoy the views as you enter Sydney Harbour.
The cruise port is situated in the downtown area of Sydney, adjacent to the ferry terminal and across a small inlet from Sydney’s famous opera house. There is so much to do in the city centre, that unless there was a specific reason you wanted to go outside the area, you could spend a few days walking around and taking in the many sites the city has to offer. A climb up the famous Harbour Bridge will be on my bucket list for my next visit!
A short walk from the port area, you can find the Royal Botanic Garden, Sydney Opera House and the inner harbour ferry terminals. Very easy to navigate the ferry system and easy payment with an Opal Card. Heading uphill from the cruise terminal towards the financial district are many shops, coffee shops etc.
New Zealand – a Visa is required when visiting New Zealand and can be obtained online.
Milford, Doubtful and Dusky Sounds
If you are travelling to New Zealand via a cruise line a must for your itinerary should be Fiordland National Park the home of Milford, Doubtful and Dusky Sounds. You will not be disappointed spending the day viewing the magnificent and untouched scenery. Rainforests, waterfalls and sheer cliffs are throughout these beautiful fiords which are home to much sea life including dolphins, sea lions and penguins.
Dunedin
Our first port of call in New Zealand was Dunedin, the second largest city on the South Island. There are many signs of Scottish influence throughout the city with beautiful buildings and even a statue to commemorate the infamous Scottish poet, Robert Burns.
We spent the day riding the Taieri Gorge Railway. The railway was built by early pioneers through some of New Zealand’s most rugged terrain. We boarded the train at Port Chalmers and were taken into Dunedin. From there, we travelled the rail inland through fertile farmlands to the Taieri plans and the Taieri River Gorge, filled with spectacular sheer cliffs and ravines, to Pukerangi. Pukerangi is the turn around point for the train and, while there are no public shops or services in this small hamlet, the locals where there selling their crafts and to welcome us.
This was a unique experience and one for the memory books. Highly recommended.
Akaroa
Our next stop was Akaroa which is a quaint, coastal town southeast of Christchurch. Akaroa was very picturesque and has many heritage buildings depicting 19th century British and French colonial history. We choose to spend the day, though, in Christchurch which is a 1 ½ hour drive from the coast. While Christchurch is a distance from Akaroa, the drive was extremely scenic driving along switchback roads through rolling countryside and farming communities.
Signs of destruction from the 2011 earthquake are still evident in downtown Christchurch. Christchurch Cathedral was significantly damaged and is still under a state of repairs, as well as other older buildings in and around the downtown core. But Christchurch did not disappoint and I would encourage visitors to walk the downtown core, visit the Botanical Gardens, various museums Christchurch has to offer, Canterbury College, the Arts Centre situated throughout the area.
Picton
The town of Picton is located on the north coast of New Zealand’s South Island and is at the entrance to Queen Charlotte Sound. Picton has many amenities and it would be worthwhile to take a leisurely stroll around this lovely seaside town. A hike around one of the trails making up the Queen Charlotte Sound Track System should also be in the plans. To reach many of the Queen Charlotte trails, one needs to book a guide boat at the marina in the centre of town, which will take you to the trail heads. Queen Charlotte Track system is a 45-mile walkway that extends almost the entire length of QC Sound.
We choose to hike the portion around Mistletoe Bay which led us through regenerating native forests with stands of large tree ferns and beech trees. While this hike could be classified as more of a nature walk, the scenery did not disappoint. I would encourage anyone heading to this area to take advantage of the natural surroundings that make this area so stunning.
Wellington
Wellington is the capital city of New Zealand and is situated on the southern tip of the North Island known as the “Storm Coast” where strong winds, rocky coastline and rugged seas are prevalent.
The Storm Coast was certainly in action while we were visiting but the weather did not stop us from travelling outside of Wellington, on the stormy coastal roads, to a working sheep farm – Pencarrow Station. Pencarrow Station is one of the area’s oldest sheep and cattle farms. While at Pencarrow Station, we took in the gorgeous views of the Storm Coast across Cook Strait which, on clear days, we were told one can see the South Island.
I would highly recommend a trip to Pencarrow Station and the surrounding area when visiting Wellington. Again, there are many tour companies working in the Wellington area.
Napier
Napier is situated on the North Island and is set amongst a world-renowned wine-producing region. The city is unique as it is known for many art deco landmarks, buildings and homes but the downtown area is art deco at its best! Vintage cars and stores selling 1930’s memorabilia are commonplace. One can either venture out into wine country or take a tour around the city. You will be captivated as you step back to the time of the “Roaring Twenties”.
Tauranga
Our last Port of Call before heading to Auckland for disembarkation was Tauranga. While we enjoyed the scenery and people of New Zealand, Tauranga did not disappoint and could be stated as a favourite port in New Zealand.
Tauranga is situated on the Bay of Plenty with Mt. Maunganui, an extinct volcano, rising above it. One can spend the day walking the boardwalk and taking in all the beautiful sites while walking the trail up to Mt. Maunganui. The beaches surrounding Tauranga are stunning. Walk the area and enjoy the sites of this beautiful place.
Auckland
Auckland, New Zealand is a busy city located on the northern tip of the North Island. There are many things to do around the port from booking a day of sailing on vessels docked in the area, taking the inner island ferry system to any one of the islands in and around the area, touring Sky Tower which is located in the downtown area, and/or visiting the Maritime Museum located in the Port area. Also, do not miss a trip to the Auckland War Memorial Museum if you have time.
If you are wanting to go outside the downtown core, you could catch a city bus, but NZ dollars are a must. On our first visit to Auckland, a couple of years back, we found the bus the best way to get to areas we wanted to visit. The drivers were extremely helpful and New Zealanders were extremely polite as everyone (no exaggeration!) thanked the driver as they disembarked!
Also, if heading to the airport, or from the airport into the City, I would suggest taking the Auckland Airport Transfer Sky Bus service. There are many pick up/drop off points in the downtown core and outer areas of Auckland. Further information for this service can be found on the internet. The cost was very reasonable and the service is excellent.